Leak Facts  I  Signs and Symptoms  I  Is your pool safe  I  Water Conservation  I  Tap Water Quality  I  Bucket Test  I  Meter Test  I  Flexi Hoses  I  Domestic water meter shut off key
Water Hammer  I Summer Tips  I  Block Kitchen Drains  I  What Causes Pipe Failure?  I  Instructions on Pipe repair to UPVC underground |  Non return valves in water meters  I  Pressure reading before gas is pumped  I  Pipe location in Cluster developments  I  Tracing Water Leaks with Hydrogen  I  Latest Water Tariffs
 

Leak Facts

  • A 4mm hole in a metal pipe, at 275 k.p.a, leaks 9463.52 litres of water in 24 hours.

  • A leak the size of a pinhead can waste 31362748.24 litres per year, enough to fill 12,000 bathtubs to the overflow mark.

  • A leaking toilet can use 340687.06 litres of water in 30 days.

  • A dripping tap can lose up to 681.37 litres in a month or 8176.48 litres per year.

  • Approximately 1 in every 20 pools has a leak.

  • Approximately 1 in every 318 homes or buildings has a leak.

  • A typical toilet leak at today's rate can add R500.00 to a single water bill.

  • One trip through a car wash uses 567 litres of drinking water.

  • Collecting water for gardening from the tap while waiting for hot water saves about 946.35 litres of water a month.

  • Using a broom to clean the driveway instead of a hose saves 567.81 litres of water.

  • Using a pool cover prevents about 3785.411 litres per month from evaporating.

  • Smart Leak Detection - Two decades in business discovering over 13000 leaks.

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You may have a plumbing leak if . . .

  • You can hear the continuous sound of water (like a toilet running) when nothing is turned on.

  • Your water meter reading changes when you aren't using any water. (Mark the indicator on your meter; don't use any water for an hour; then check the meter. If the indicator moved, you may have a leak.)

  • Your water bill escalates over a period of weeks or months. (Compare your bills month to month.)

  • Your walls or floors have wet, spongy, moist or discoloured areas when nothing has been spilled.

  • You can smell foul odours coming from floors or walls near drains or sewers.

  • Your building foundation cracks, vegetation grows unevenly, or earth shifts for no apparent reason.

  • You find warm spots on your floor, particularly on concrete slab floors.

You may have a pool/spa leak if . . .

  • You lose 4mm" of water or more in 24 hours. Perform a Bucket Test. Evaporation rates vary per area. Call your local Smart Leak Detection office for details.

  • You find algae forming too soon after a chemical treatment.

  • You find loose or falling tiles or pool deck cracks. (All are signs that the surrounding ground is being compromised by water.)

  • Your pool/spa has settled into the ground or cracks and gaps appear in the pool shell or concrete deck.

  • You find standing water, mushy spots, or uneven grass growth around the pool/spa area.

  • Your automatic filler is continually releasing water.

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Is Your Pool Safe?

Each year, about 260 children under 5 drown in swimming pools. The preventive measures below are essential to protect your family against drowning.

  • Pool cover or net is essential – if not the following methods can be considered.

  • Limit access to the pool with physical barriers.

    • Install fences and walls at least 4-feet high completely around the pool.

    • Use self-closing gates with the latch positioned high and out of reach of small children.

    • If your house forms one side of the barrier for the pool, doors leading from the house to the pool should be protected with alarms that sound when the doors are unexpectedly opened.

    • Use a motor-powered safety cover over the water area to prevent access by young children.

    • For above-ground pools, steps and ladders to the pool should be removed and secured when the pool is not in use.

  • Supervise young children.

    • Knowing how to swim does not make a child drown-proof.

    • Never use flotation devices as a substitute for supervision.

  • Be prepared in case of emergency.

    • Seconds count! If a child is missing, always look in the pool first.

    • Keep rescue equipment and a phone next to the pool.

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Water Conservation

As the leading brand in leak detection since 1991, Smart Leak Detection is committed to conserving water, our most precious resource.

Smart Leak Detection has found 13000 leaks since 1991 and counting.
If each leak found saved the minimum water from a pinhole leak over twelve months, then we have saved 1,661,263,950,000 Litres of water.

Conservation Checklist

Saving water is like any other habit. The more you do it, the more natural it becomes. Become water-wise, it's fun to find more ways to conserve.

Speaking of saving, be sure to save this Smart Leak Detection checklist. Hang it in a handy place - like your Garage or on the fridge. Use it to do a full leak check on your house four times a year. Just seeing it will remind you that conservation pays and preserves precious water.

Sometimes a small investment can pay large dividends. For example, buying a low-flush toilet can save over 18,000 Litres of water a year! It's up to all of us - individuals, businesses, industry - to save the earth's resources. So remember, wherever you go, take your water-consciousness along. What works at home, works at the office!

In General

  • Watch for leaks. Pay attention to the SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS of plumbing, pool and spa leaks as outlined below. Do a routine indoor/outdoor check every three months, or call professionals to do one for you.

  • Check all taps for drips. If a drip fills a glass every quarter hour, it will lose about 180 Litres per month. That's 2,160 Litres a year, enough for 30+ showers or baths! Drips can usually be fixed by replacing inexpensive washers or valve seats.

  • Install flow restrictors or other conservation devices on all taps. With these in the shower alone, you can cut your water use from about 20 to 40 Litres per minute to as low as 5.6 to 11 Litres per minute.

  • Wrap exposed indoor and outdoor pipes to prevent breakage in freezing weather or excessive UV exposure in the Sun..

Pools and Spa's

  • Do regular leak checks-ups. A leak in the pool area can waste 3785.411 Litres or more per day. Consult the SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS of pool and Spa Leaks previously outlined.

  • Pay particular attention to your automatic water filler (especially on Koi ponds). If it's faulty, your water bill suffers.

  • Keep track of the amount of chemicals you normally use. An increase in quantity used can also be a sign of a leak.

  • Use a pool/spa cover to cut down on water loss (and heating costs) caused by evaporation.

In The Kitchen

  • One of the most common areas for water loss is the kitchen sink area. Check under cupboards once a week for wet spots or bowed cabinetry.

  • Keep drinking water in the refrigerator so you don't have to run the tap until the water gets cold enough to drink.

  • Only run full loads in your dishwasher.

  • Scrape food from plates with a utensil, not running water.

  • Don't continuously run water in the sink. Hand wash dishes in a sink full of soapy water; rinse all at once. Soak hard-to clean pans overnight.

In The Bathroom

  • Check sinks for drips or leaks once a week.

  • Check grout and tiles in shower area. Are any loose? Is grout missing, allowing water to flow beneath the tiles?

  • Check toilets for leaks. Drop a teaspoon of food coloring into the tank. If the color appears in the bowl after 15 minutes, have the "Washer" or mechanism replaced. If leaks continue, have a professional check your system.

  • Decrease the amount of water used per flush. Replace regular or older toilets with new ultra-low flush models or put water displacement devices inside every toilet tank. Make them from plastic water bottles weighted down with pebbles. DO NOT PUT BRICKS IN YOUR TANK. They can dissolve and clog siphon jets.

Outdoors

  • Walk around your property once a week to look for spongy or mushy ground where broken pipes might be hidden.

  • Check sprinklers for jammed or malfunctioning heads.

  • Use accurate, efficient sprinklers or drip irrigation systems instead of hand watering.

  • Water lawns during the coolest times of the day, before 10:00 a.m. or in the evening.

  • Deep-soak lawns long enough for water to seep down to the roots, where it is needed. Water deeper and less often.

  • Dig basins around individual plants to prevent run-off while watering.

  • Put a layer of mulch around trees and plants to slow moisture evaporation.

  • Landscape with native plants that take little water.

  • Pull weeds as they steal water from desirable plants.

  • Sweep driveways, sidewalks and steps.

  • Use a commercial car wash, your water bill will come down – Modern Car wash operators re-cycle and filter their water.

Other Conservation Tips

  • Replace old appliances with newer, more efficient, energy-saving models.

  • Cut your air conditioner's workload by positioning shade trees or awnings to reduce heat gain through windows.

  • Close fireplace dampers in the summer.

  • Close unused rooms.

  • Close draperies

  • Turn off lights when not in use.

  • Drink Tap Water

Make your move today toward wiser use of our resources. When it comes to conservation, every effort helps. Check out what you can do; then make it a habit!

Save a resource. It's money in the bank.

please go to www.sika.co.za

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Tap Water Delivers Quality

The Value of Water

As many areas face serious water shortages and even drought, consumers can do their part to conserve precious supplies through small, thoughtful changes in their lifestyles and activities.

There is no shortage of news stories on the merits of tap water and bottled water from a variety of different perspectives. The truth is, while tap water and bottled water are regulated differently, both are generally safe, healthy choices. But only tap water delivers public health protection, fire protection, support for the economy and the overall quality of life we enjoy. Whatever you choose drink, the water system infrastructure needs constant attention to keep safe water flowing through our communities every day. 

Bottled water impact

  • Tap water costs much less than bottled water [Sierra Club]

  • Plastic bottles are a source of pollution as 90% are not recycled

  • Bottling companies and tap water utilities are not regulated by the same standards [CommonDreams.org]

  • More energy used in manufacturing, storing and transporting bottled water [wikipedia.org]

  • Fox News - Green Alternatives to Bottled Water

Simple changes effect larger outcomes

When drinking bottled water, be sure to reuse or recycle your bottles to limit the environmental impact of plastic bottles. Install an in-home water filtration system for improved tap water quality

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Bucket Test

The "Bucket Test" will determine if water loss in a pool is due to evaporation or a leak:
1.Bring pool water to normal level.
2. Fill a 20 litre bucket with pool water about 3-4 inches from top.
3. Place bucket on first or second step of pool.
4. Mark water level on inside of bucket.
5. Shut off pump and mark pool level on outside of bucket.
6. Resume normal pump operation. Make sure auto/manual fill valve is off during test.
7. After 24 hours, compare the two levels. If the pool water (outside mark) goes down more than the inside water level, there is probably a leak.

In case of rain, repeat the test.

Test is not valid after 24 hours.

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Meter Test

  • This test should be conducted for a 30 minute period, during which time no water is being used on the property.

  • Find your water meter, which is usually located in front of the house in a covered box near the street. Normally the position of a garden tap near the boundary in the front shows the location.

  • Write down the numbers indicated on the meter at the start of this test.

  • Return to check the meter reading after 30 minutes have passed.

  • If the numbers have not changed, you do not have a leak in your pressurized water system. If the numbers have changed, continue with the following steps.

  • Shut off the valves under all toilets in the house, and repeat steps 1-4.

  • If the numbers have not changed, you may have a running toilet that should be serviced.

If the numbers have changed, this indicates water consumption even though water was not being used during the test, and you may need a leak detection.

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Flexi Hoses

Flexi hoses are one of the biggest causes of damage to homes in South Africa, we have seen more insurance claims due to flexi hoses than any other type of pipe burst. The three reasons are

  1. Inferior quality materials

  2. The flexi hose nut is tightened but the hose twists at the same time and unnecessary stress is put on the hose causing it to rupture after a while, instead the crimped section of the hose should be gently gripped with a water pump pliers holding its position to avert the twisting of the hose.

  3. The nuts are over tightened and expand causing hairline cracks to appear eventually causing metal fatigue of the flexi hose nut as the materials used in these flexi hoses are generally of a softer poorer quality than the fitting or ball-o-stop / angle lever valve they are connected to

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Domestic water meter shut off key

Daily we come across plastic water meters that are destroyed due to the wrong tools being used, the correct valve key should be used and this will avert the plastic head of the shut off valve being damaged.

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Water Hammer

Water hammer is a pressure shock wave induced in plumbing supply systems whenever there is a sudden change in the steady state condition of a non-compressible liquid such as water. Pumps, valves, taps, toilets, and fast solenoid-activated valves (such as commonly found in washing machines and dishwashers) are all examples of devices that can induce water hammer within a typical plumbing system. Water hammer can result in noisy, banging sounds as pipes rattle and expand to absorb the pressure wave. Shock waves in typical water pipes travel at up to 4500 feet/second and can exert tremendous instantaneous pressures, sometimes reaching 150 to over 1,000 PSI. If left unchecked, water hammer can damage pipes, valves and eventually weaken joints. However, the lack of noise does not mean that water hammer is not present.
Several factors exacerbate water hammer and are generally traceable to inadequate system design and installation. These include:

  • Improperly sized supply lines for given peak water flow velocity;

  • Excessive system water pressure and lack of pressure-reducing apparatus;

  • Inadequate strapping or securing of plumbing to structure;

  • Excessively long straight runs with no bends;

  • Lack of expansion tank or other dampening system, such as water hammer arresters;

Newton's law states that for "every action there is an equal and opposite reaction." If water is flowing into a washing machine then is suddenly shut off, the kinetic energy of the flowing water reverses direction and must be dissipated during the transition to a steady state. This energy is initially reflected back through the plumbing system in a direction opposite to the original flow, creating an oscillating shock wave. Depending on the extent of the shock wave, a loud banging or rattling sound can be heard as pipes expand and move as the shock wave dissipates.

If there were no friction losses and if the pipes had no expansiveness, the shock wave would continue indefinitely. However, as water flows through the pipes, friction due to internal pipe surface irregularities helps to slow the water, resulting in energy that is converted to heat. In addition, virtually all pipes -- including drawn copper tubing -- have some measure of elasticity. As the plumbing system encounters a sudden pressure shock wave, the pipes expand slightly to absorb the shock. Pressures in excess of several thousand PSI are possible during this brief instant, which is why water hammer can burst pipes and joints unexpectedly.

Failure to properly address water hammer can yield the following dangers, according to the Plumbing and Drainage Institute:

  • Ruptured piping

  • Leaking connections

  • Weakened connections

  • Pipe vibration and noise

  • Damaged valves

  • Damaged check valves

  • Damaged water meters

  • Damaged pressure regulators and gauges

  • Damaged recording apparatus

  • Loosened pipe hangers and supports

  • Ruptured tanks and water heaters

  • Premature failure of other devices

Clearly, repairing any of these conditions "after the fact" is more expensive and inconvenient than designing a system right from the start.

Traditional Solution to Water Hammer

Traditionally, the solution to water hammer has been to install pipe risers inside the wall at each tap or valve junction. Sometimes these risers would be as high as 24" or more, depending on the pipe diameter. In theory, the risers would trap air as the plumbing system is first activated. The column of air acts as a natural damper, compressing as it absorbs residual shock waves from a sudden change in the supply flow.

Many, if not most older homes today have such systems and some plumbers continue to install air risers because "that's the way they've always done it." However, what is not readily understood is that these risers eventually fail due to water logging. Over time, the trapped air in the risers dissolves into the water supply itself and the water level gradually rises until the air chamber is completely void of air at all. For this reason, some people who have never experienced the sound of water hammer may suddenly start complaining of "strange noises inside the walls."

The only real solution is to completely drain the home's water supply system at the lowest point and gradually re-pressurize it. However, this solution is temporary at best, since the air chambers will eventually become waterlogged once again, thereby eliminating their effectiveness.

What's more, further studies have also found possible health problems associated with air risers, such as an accumulation of rancid water, bacteria, minerals, and other muck that festers in the dark, dead-end chambers. If left unchecked and untreated, this could eventually contaminate the entire household water supply causing unexplained illness.

Therefore, modern practice and, indeed, many plumbing codes, now prohibit air chambers in new construction. In any case, if you are remodeling or building a new home, DO NOT use air chambers to mitigate water hammer problems. Rather, design the system right from the start and you'll never have to worry about it again. A combination of proper pipe sizing and water hammer arresters are all that's necessary in most situations.

Water Hammer Prevention by Design

If air chambers, then, are not an approved method of dampening the impact of water hammer, what is the correct method? First, let's consider new construction where there is no existing legacy plumbing.

In the case of a new home, there is total flexibility in sizing the water supply lines properly. Empirical studies conclude that water hammer is greatly mitigated when water velocity is kept below 5 feet/second within the pipe. This is a conservative number. And while CPVC plumbing is increasingly common (and is somewhat more forgiving at higher velocities due to its increased expansiveness), copper plumbing is still the mainstay of most commercial and residential plumbing systems today and is the focus of this technical note.

So by us changing the systems velocity (not of our own negligence but purely working to a standard) we often sit with a water hammer. A loop in the pipe to the washing machine - with a flexi hose on a ridged piece of pipe should help, but the system needs to be checked over and jumpers in taps usually help to stop the hammer.

Noisy Pipes / Toilet

One of our most frequent questions is how to stop "water-hammer" when water has been drawn from a system. First it is important to know how it occurs. The entry of cold water into your tank and toilet cisterns is controlled by a "ball valve". As hot water is drawn from your emersion, so cold water rushes in from the cold tank to replace it. When you flush the loo, the same thing happens in your cistern. The incoming flow is regulated by a float, which rises with the water to shut off the valve when the tank is full. This float is generally in the form of a plastic ball on the end of an arm.

When the mains cold rushes into the tank/cistern it causes ripples on the surface, the float bobs about, opening and closing the valve. It is this vibration within the valve and on the float arm which, when reverberating along the pipe, initiates the cause of water-hammer. The velocity of the water flowing through the valve means that when it is shut there is a build up of pressure behind the valve, as more water tries to push on through the pipe. This increase in pressure causes a pressure wave to form which travels back down the pipe. The wave then travels up and down the pipe until the energy is dissipated through friction, this is why there is a ‘hammering’ effect.

There are a few ways to ease this problem, "professional" ways and DIY ways, none are difficult, but the first thing to make sure of is that wherever a pipe is up against a joist, rafter or other surface, it is fixed securely. The first and most effective professional way is to install an equilibrium valve instead of the standard valve in your tank or cistern.

This valve works by allowing some water to get at the back of the piston washer to stop the arm jumping about. The noise reduction valve above it is a further alternative, this allows incoming water to disperse below the water line and reduces the "waves", it slows the vibration down but most often will notstop it. The cost of a noise reduction valve is about R120.00, with arm and ball and an equilibrium valve is approx R330.00. The noise reduction valve does make a considerable difference to the noise your system makes when filling up.

The DIY way is very effective but slightly cumbersome. Take an ordinary yoghurt carton and attach it to your float arm with some galvanised or stainless steel wire, which will not rust. Suspend the carton just below the water line. When full of water it has enough weight to stop the vibration, but not too much to stop the arm lifting gently.

If your pipes are not hammering but just making creaking noises, this is normally caused by the friction of the pipe moving on the substrate they are fixed to. Get some heavy duty polythene and fix it between the two surfaces and reduce the friction.

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Seasonal Tips for Summer

Summer is the "home buying" season. Many new homebuyers find out too late that their dream home is riddled with water leakage or a poor plumbing system. In fact, 44% of consumers call a plumber within one year of purchasing a home. To avoid such unexpected and costly problems, we recommend that you visually inspect any potential home for problems and offer these helpful tips:

Bathrooms:

  • Check around the base of the toilet and in the toilet for signs of water leakage, put a piece of toilet paper inside the inner wall of the loo - this will turn a darker colour as water invisibly trickles down the wall of the toilet pan. Often running water goes unnoticed as it runs in a stream down the toilet.

  • After locating the manhole on the property Check if water rises in the bowl when flushed and insert a handful of toilet paper in the toilet flushing and standing at the manhole check if the toilet paper has gone through..

  • Check to see how fast the toilet flushes.

  • Check for leaky or loose tiles by pressing on the walls where they come in contact with the bathtub. If the walls are soft, water may have created damage behind the tiles.Check all showers for loose tiles and water marks on the common wall behind the shower. Often grouting and bad waterproofing allows water to seep through tiles.

Water Supply Piping:

  • Turn on water in bathtub and in the kitchen sink. If there is a noticeable reduction in water volume, the piping in the house may need to be replaced because of calcium and mineral deposits.

  • Someone must climb into the ceiling to check exposed piping for signs of leaking or recent repairs.

  • Find the main line shut off valve and ensure that it is accessible.

Water Heater:

  • Check the date of the water heater. The first 2 numbers of the code are the month and the letter corresponds to the year of manufacture Any heater over 5 years old is a candidate to be replaced.

  • A rusty water tank is a sign of pending problems. Make sure you have a certificate of compliance from a registered plumber for the Hot water cylinder Miscellaneous

  • Check to make sure that the garbage disposer and dishwasher connections are tight and leak free.

  • Survey the inside of cabinets (with a torch) for signs of water damage, warped cabinet bottom or stains. Make sure that traps and supply tubes are not leaking.

  • Check washing machine hoses for rupture. Turn valves on and off to test for leaks.

Standing Water:

  • Standing water is another common problem resulting from leaky or broken pipes. Excess water in a yard may be coming from a damaged sewer line and may contain waste from the home. Standing water is not healthy for children or pets, and is a breeding ground for insects and germs. Inspect the yard for areas that are too wet and with unusual plant or grass growth.

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Blocked Kitchen Drains

On the discharge of the Kitchen sink often cold fat has congealed inside the pipes and they block, this needs to be flushed out with boiling water and caustic soda,

However we first normally block the outlet where it discharges into the gully to prevent the caustic soda from escaping (blocking the outlet is done with a hydraulic plug) or a housewife or handyman could use old rags and stuff them up the pipe . Retrieving the rags can be an issue so one could first tie a piece of wire around the rags so the caustic soda wont come into contact with the skin when you retrieve your rags.

If the pipe is not stopped with a hydraulic plug or rags the caustic soda just runs over the fat and down the drain. Most people make this mistake and dont allow the caustic soda to bubble and boil - Infact if you use cold water and block the pipes the chemical reaction will heat up the pipes automatically and then after 5 minutes let the plug go. However extreme caution should be exercised when doing this as protective gear such as gloves and GOGGLES to protect the eyes. Even a mask for inhalation is necessary.

However" nothing beats calling Smart Plumbing with a professional drain cleaning machine to unblock your drain WITH A GUARANTEE

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What Causes Pipe failure?

A number of factors can work alone or in combination to affect the rate of corrosion in any piping system. Depending on the number and degree of these factors, even a new piping system can show signs of corrosive wear in as few as two years after installation. The problems are most acute in properties that have been in service 15 years or more, however.

The corrosive effect the source water can have on a piping system does not mean water quality is poor. As an example, in the Gauteng & Cape region the water quality has been rated as some of the best drinking water in the world. Yet, that water still has a very corrosive effect on piping systems because of several factors unrelated to water quality:

  • Water chemistry

  • The pH of the water

  • The amount of oxygen in the water

  • The temperature of the water

  • The velocity/pressure of the water in the pipe

The rate of corrosion can also be affected by the chemical make up of the water and the amount of galvanic corrosion from the use of dissimilar metals contained in or in contact with the piping system. For example, a moderate level of calcium helps form a protective coating on the pipe, which may slow down corrosive effects. The operative word is moderate. Unfortunately, high levels of calcium may build up in the pipe and restrict water flow. In addition, galvanic corrosion (also known as
electrolysis) occurs when different metals come into contact with each other. The effects of galvanic corrosion are usually limited to the immediate area of metal-to-metal contact and the use of dielectric fittings helps stop the problem— but it does nothing to repair the resulting thin-walled, damaged pipe.

Let’s take a closer look at the most prevalent factors that influence corrosion of piping systems.

The pH Of The Water

Acidity of a water sample is measured on a pH scale, which ranges from zero (maximum acidity) to 14 (maximum alkalinity). The middle of the scale, 7, represents the neutral point, and acidity increases from neutral toward 0, while alkalinity increases from 7 to 14. This is all pretty straightforward, except that the pH scale is based on logarithmic progression, much like the commonly used “Richter” scale for earthquake measurement.

This means that a difference of one pH unit represents a tenfold change in acidity. What difference does that make? In copper pipe systems, when the pH is more than 8, a copper oxide film usually forms on the pipe walls. This film acts as a barrier that slows the affects of corrosion.
However, when the pH in the water supply is lower than 8 the copper oxide film (barrier) is dissolved, which leaves no protective barrier and subjecting the pipe to the corrosive action of the water. The ultimate result? Pinhole leaks that can damage walls, flooring and structural components.

The Amount Of Oxygen In The Water and Water Temperature

A domestic water system is an “open” system, in which the water in use is always being replenished with fresh, oxygenated water. Dissolved air in water consists of about 30% oxygen and the rest is mostly non-corrosive nitrogen. Oxygen, however, degrades metals through an electro-chemical process of internal oxidation. As a result, the metal gradually gets converted to an oxide (rust) and becomes thinner and weaker in the process. As the pipe corrodes, the impurities are deposited in the water lines and encrusted build up is the direct result of this oxidation process.

As for water temperature, the higher the water temperature, the faster the rate at which this oxidation occurs. While oxygen content decreases under higher water temperature pressure, these higher temperatures and pressure conditions can actually accelerate the oxidation process.

Experience shows that corrosion is more pronounced in hot water lines than in cold water lines.

Water Velocity

Water velocity problems are usually associated with a “closed loop” piping system in which it’s necessary to pump or circulate the water.

Erosion corrosion occurs at locations where water turbulence develops, usually caused by excessive velocity. This is typically encountered when water makes sudden changes in direction (such as sharp pipe turns and elbows) and through “flow” obstacles such as burrs and excess solder from improperly soldered joints.

In the case of copper pipe, a copper oxide layer is established under the right pH conditions on the inside surface of the pipe and this acts as a protective barrier. This is a good thing—however, when the water velocities are above four feet per second, the copper oxide layer is either destroyed or cannot form in the first place. Without this oxide layer the metal will tend to deteriorate at a more rapid rate.

Other major contributing factors to this type of erosion corrosion include oversized circulation pumps, installation of undersized distribution lines and an improperly balanced system.

If A Piping System Is Damaged By Corrosion, How Can It Be Repaired?

There are several traditional methods available to treat the problems of corrosion, but each situation must be resolved separately, based on its own conditions. Some of these methods will be explored in a future article, but with each of the traditional methods, the cause and effect of the corrosion must first be identified so the appropriate repair is made.

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Instructions on Pipe repair to UPVC underground

Cascade Permanent Pipe Repair Made Quick and Easy

Wrap clamp around the pipe. Bring together using locking washer plate.

Lock in place. Squeeze the lugs together & spin the nuts down.

Tighten the nuts evenly with a wrench - no rotating is necessary.

You have just made a permanent repair.

Take a good look at the clamp before you bury it - it's the last time you'll ever see it!

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Non return valves in water meters

Here a Kent water meter has a yellow non-return valve.

On Golf estates when pumping hydrogen gas for leak detection we may or may not want the gas to flow through the meter – sometimes debris blocks the NRV (Non return valve and the meter allows both water and gas to flow in both directions).

All Kent meters come out standard with a non return valve. The Leak detection technician needs to take cognizance of the NRV and when it will and wont work. The great little insert valves are supposed to stop peoples meters turning backwards.

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Pressure reading before gas is pumped

Before a leak detection can take place the reading of static pressure on site needs to be taken recorded and decisions on Correlations or gas need to be decided on. Without prior knowledge of Static pressure on site the Leak detector is at a disadvantage so one of the first steps is to understand the pressure on site!!

 

 

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Pipe location in Cluster developments

Here we locate the sewer lines to find out where the water is going – through the gardens and over the walls around corners and past normal thinking that is fenced in by complacency.

We break through boundaries changing the way people think about utility maintenance of pipes – the only sure way to diagnose a problem is to throw yourself completely at it – by embracing technology and having a passion for diagnostics we have successfully solved thousands of pipe problems.

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Tracing Water Leaks with Hydrogen

HYDROGEN

Hydrogen is actually the lightest element in the universe and hydrogen gas is the lightest of all gases. Hydrogen molecules move with a much higher velocity than any other molecule and therefore escape through leaks quicker than other gases. Hydrogen gas does also dissipate quicker than other gases thereby minimizing the risk for build-up background interference during leak testing.

If you worry about increased background concentrations, try 5% Hydrogen as tracer gas. This is also the least expensive tracer gas you can buy.

Some leaks are so big that you can see them or hear them. Other leaks are so small that you need a vacuum system to detect them. Most leaks are in the range between these extremes and can be detected with hydrogen tracer gas.

 

Hydrogen has some unique properties making it a superb tracer gas for leak testing:

  • Lightest molecule

  • Low background in air (0.5 ppm)

  • Environmentally friendly and a renewable natural resource

  • Inexpensive

  • Non flammable (when purchased ready mixed 5% Hydrogen in Nitrogen)

  • Non-toxic and non-corrosive

 

Never use pure hydrogen for leak testing. We recommend to use a standard industrial gas mixture consisting of 5% hydrogen in nitrogen, available from almost all gas supplier (often called Forming Gas).

 

SAFETY

It is a widespread misconception that the flammability of Hydrogen would make it impossible to benefit from its advantageous properties in leak testing. In fact, Hydrogen is only flammable in the concentration range 4% - 75% in air or oxygen, and can only detonate in the range 18% - 60% in air or oxygen.

By using pre-diluted Hydrogen one can avoid the flammable concentration range altogether. Standard Hydrogen/Nitrogen mixtures are for example commonly used as shielding gases for welding purposes.

Hydrogen can therefore safely be employed for leak testing if used at the right concentration. A suitable concentration to use is the standard 5% Hydrogen / 95% Nitrogen mixture which is available in industrial grade from most gas suppliers. The price is only a fraction for example of the price for helium.

The 5% mixture is classified as non-flammable according to international standard ISO 10156. This standard not only describes how flammability limits of gas mixtures are to be determined, but also states that Hydrogen/Nitrogen mixtures containing less than 5.7% Hydrogen are non-flammable, irrespective of how this mixture, in turn, is

 

ENVIRONMENT

Hydrogen is a naturally occurring gas which is totally non-toxic and has no adverse effects on the environment. Hydrogen can be found naturally or produced with very simple methods. In fact we all have some hydrogen being produced in our stomachs!
The normal background level of Hydrogen in air is as low as 0.5 ppm.

Other tracer gases either comes from finite sources, are expensive to produce or are potentially toxic. Therefore Hydrogen is the most environmentally friendly choice to make when considering Leak Testing with a tracer gas. A fact important to remember if your company holds an ISO14001 certificate or similar.

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